Long Island Valentine

Exit Strategy

A couple of weeks ago, we took advantage of a break in the strong winds to head over to Long Island for a few days.  After two days of light winds we anticipated that exiting the harbor would be a breeze.  Although the waves were not terribly large, they were terribly confused and we had to endure about 20 minutes of a washing machine before escaping into more organized seas with a longer swell period.  With reefs all around us, we had an amazing view of a tempestuous sea state crashing against into the shallows.  It was a spectacular sight – especially as our friends on Rollick came through behind us, seemingly swallowed up by the waves.  We had numerous boats hail us to confirm conditions, including one boat that was entering the harbor without accurate charts!  Ken gave him waypoints to follow and we hoped that they would find their way safely inside.  As we reached the banks, the water settled down and we had a fabulous sail across to Long Island and beautiful views of Rollick flying their colorful spinnaker.

Rollers waiting for us as we exit Elizabeth Harbor

Rollick, behind us....

...and in smoother waters

Dream Catcher underway

Happy Captain

The Other Long Island

As its name suggests, Long Island, is a long skinny island with several settlements and a fairly robust population considering its remote location.  We pulled into Miller’s Bay by mid-afternoon and strolled the long stretch of beach there.  The sand is very different, being more golden brown and granular than the powdery white sands to which we’ve grown accustomed.  It didn’t stop the girls from swimming, building sand castles, and shelling all afternoon.  Jeanette hung out with Alex and Jordan that evening, while Bernie, Andrea, Ken and I had an early Valentine's Day dinner at Chez Pierre on shore.  

Alex and Jeanette with a Valentine's Day cupcake on Rollick

The next morning we moved over to Thompson Bay, where most of the cruiser action takes place.  Happily, our visit coincided with Saturday’s farmer’s market and we joined the procession from the dinghy dock up the hill to the old open-air building which houses the market.   It was quite a lively scene, with numerous vendors selling homemade gifts, jams, jellies, and produce.  We recognized one of the vendors as the waitress from our dinner out the night before, and made a point of buying some of her goods, including some Long Island sea salt. 

To market, to market!

Thompson Bay Farmers Market

Local produce, crafts, and homemade goodies (photo from Rollick)

Handmade straw goods (photo courtesy of Rollick)

Fresh coconut water

Getting Away From It All

After being immersed in the kid-boat caravan for several weeks, we were all yearning for a real getaway.  We weighed anchor first thing the next morning and set out for the unknown.  Our first stop was at Nuevitas Rocks off the southwestern part of Long Island.   With great visibility and an extensive reef to explore, we snorkeled and fished, collecting fish, lobster, and conch for dinner. 

One Margate, two Hogfish, three meals

By mid-afternoon, we needed to move on in order to squeeze into our next anchorage with the high tide.  Motoring into the channel between Dollar Cay and Sandy Cay was like entering paradise.  The channel is fairly narrow, a ribbon of deep blues and greens ending abruptly as the bottom shallows precipitously to shoals and sandbars that stretch to the horizon.  The sand, while inviting, is not especially firm and we all got a great workout the next day as we walked all over the islands, at times sinking up to our knees in the soft sand.  

The view from 60' up

Rollick at anchor in Dollar Harbor

Ken and Jeanette with nothing but sandbar for miles around

All things considered, it's surprising we don't see more of these!

Looking across at the channel entrance

We left early the next morning as our weather window began to close down.  Tucking up amidst dozens of other boats in Red Shanks (George Town) that evening felt foreign and unfamiliar after the indescribable beauty we’d left behind us.  Yet, I have fixed that harbor in my mind and find myself returning to it again and again, like a touchstone for peace, tranquility, and a sense of all’s right with the world.  Truly heaven on earth!