Dream Catcher: March 2016

Showdown with the Low-down

This winter in the Bahamas has been unusual in that we’ve spent an inordinate amount of time dodging weather fronts (generated by low pressure systems spinning off the Carolinas). More than the past two years, the fronts came fast and frequent, sometimes two or three per week. Not a terribly big deal, unless you’re trying to travel, or find a clear day to dive and fish and enjoy what these waters have to offer.

Stormy weather

Fish cleaning station at Staniel Cay (nurse sharks)

The girls, post-music video production

The prevailing winds in the Bahamas are from the southeast (SE) and most of the islands lie such that anchoring behind them affords protection from SE winds and the seas they generate. When a front blows through, the wind clocks around to the SSW, then WNW, then NNE, and, finally, back to ESE. Depending on the strength and duration of the wind, cruisers may have to move and re-anchor a few times to remain protected. Sometimes, an island has more than one anchorage or has protection from wind coming from more than one direction. Often, a forecasted front requires advance planning so we can be sure to find protection when we need it. The interaction of the tide with the wind also determines whether the cuts between the islands are safe for passage. Sometimes, we have a choice of traveling along the "backside" of the islands (the shallow side) or the much deeper "Sound" side. Since travel between islands is often longer on the backside, this can delay travel as we wait for the Sound to settle.

Bernie and a Pico full o' girls

Williams Bay from Perry's Peak

There’s been much talk about the weather this year, especially after the derecho that hit us in Norman’s Cay and wreaked havoc all the way down the Exuma chain. We came through it unscathed, but heard a few stories from those whose boats suffered damage. Cruisers became a bit gun shy after that event and were extra cautious when preparing for strong fronts. We spent more time in Red Shanks (essentially a hurricane hole) this year than we ever have. Weather forecaster, Chris Parker, assured everyone that February would see less frequent fronts – but not by much.

Jan and I hiking Perry's Peak

Bonfire on Hamburger Beach

Jumping to the Jumentos

Nonetheless, we’ve had stretches of glorious weather – blue skies, balmy breezes, and water calm enough to provide the exceptional visibility that has spoiled us for diving anywhere else. In late January, we managed to dash down to one of our favorite dive spots in the Jumentos to do some fishing for a couple of days. While the wind and seas tore at the windward side of the islands, we dove and fished in the protected lee, filling our dinner table and freezer with fresh fish, conch, and lobster.

A rare calm day

Flamingo Day 1

I finally channeled my inner hunter

Return to the Raggeds

By mid-February, the fronts had finally slowed down enough to start heading south. The Jumentos and the Raggeds are our favorite islands and we couldn’t wait to get back to them and linger a while. Small, uninhabited (except for two of the islands), and rugged, the islands are a backdrop for the real draw.... powder-white beaches, beautiful reefs teeming with fish and lobster, and warm water with100-foot visibility or more. In the water is the place to be.

Maxine's cruiser's party on Hog Cay

The obligatory hair dye session

With our core group of four family boats, we meandered through the islands, swimming, fishing, playing, and sharing the exquisite beauty of this place. With Cuba still on the horizon, we almost fooled ourselves into thinking that this season would last forever. Each stop became a "one last time" moment - to savor and enjoy.