Tuesday, November 18, 2014

Cruising the Potomac


Washington’s Wilderness

You wouldn’t think the urban centers around Washington, DC would be surrounded by wilderness, but that is exactly what we found sailing up the Potomac River.  For hours at a time we saw nothing but trees, ospreys, herons, and even a pair of bald eagles diving for fish.  At dusk on our second day, we eased our way into the anchorage below Mount Vernon and though it may sound cliché, it really did feel like we had stepped back in time.  The next morning, we toured the mansion and the grounds, and enjoyed a surprise encounter with Mary and Coleen from Glass Slipper, whom we’d last seen in Georgetown months earlier.  While Jeanette and Coleen reveled in their reunion, Ken and I caught up with Mary and shared ideas and tips for haul-outs and “the trip back” (i.e., returning to the Bahamas).  We spent another quiet night at Mt. Vernon and, in the morning, followed Glass Slipper upriver to DC proper. 
George and Martha's house
Jeanette with Washington's personal body slave

Jeanette and Coleen at the wheat threshing barn
Jeanette and Coleen getting a friend fix
Dream Catcher below Mt. Vernon

Helicopter Highway

The anchorage in DC is in the Washington Channel – a would-be peaceful spot nestled between a park and two marinas.  It also happens to be on the main helicopter route to the White House.  Buzzing just overhead, the helicopter traffic started at dawn and sometimes went until late at night.  Some days were busier than others, but I suppose we all got used to them – even the cat, who initially ran below in terror at the start of each whump-whump-whump coming up the channel.  


The waterfront is also undergoing a major renovation with new docks being installed and an entire complex of hotels, restaurants, bars, and boutiques being rolled out in phases, beginning in 2017.  Between the helicopters, the DC cruise boats bustling in and out, the waterfront construction, sailing classes, rowing practices, and the occasional drifting boat, there was plenty of action on the water.  And while the Washington Channel may be a far cry from our tranquil anchorages down south, we enjoyed every minute of our urban experience.  For one thing, we were a 15-minute walk away from the National Mall and dozens of museums and monuments.  FREE!!  The metro and a decent grocery store were two blocks away and the best fish market I’ve seen since Pike Place was just a short dinghy ride up the channel.  What’s not to love?

Following Glass Slipper



The Mall

A typical day for us in DC was to work in the morning - Jeanette is in school, after all - and visit museums and monuments in the afternoon.  What a luxury to not have the time pressure of a compressed visit!  We could see as much or as little of any given museum as we wanted, knowing that we could come back again.  Jeanette’s favorite was the Natural History Museum – even though the dinosaur exhibit is closed for renovations.  The National Gallery and the Botanical Gardens are always on my "must see" list -  I could go back to again and again to drink up the art and bask in the beauty of those incredible orchids.  The Holocaust Museum – one that we did not, unfortunately, explore thoroughly – was not what we expected and was very thought provoking.  The Archives was another surprising find and quite interesting.  Ken spent a lot of time at the Air and Space Museum and Museum of American History.  Both had their high points and Jeanette and I made a couple of trips to the First Ladies Gowns exhibit – needless to say, her dreams are bigger than mine were at her age.  We all learned a lot at the Ford Museum and the Newseum was another big hit. 
Air and Space Museum

Jeanette working on her Junior Botanist Certificate at the National Botanical Gardens
Polka dot orchid (not it's real name, but it should be!)
National Gallery

Women's suffrage monument
Dedication of the Disabled Veterans for Life Memorial

Old Friends, New Friends

We had the good fortune of catching up with a number of old friends while we were in DC.  From childhood friends and schoolmates, to colleagues and family, we enjoyed catching up and seeing favorite places through locals’ eyes.  I also experienced my first “Boat Moms Night Out” hosted by Tanya on Take Two, and met some of the cruising families from the marina.  While Take Two was soon on their way, I connected with Kimberly from Ally Cat and Monica from Flipper, two moms of 10-year-old only girls – a definite score for Jeanette.  She had a great time playing with Ally and Lucia, who hooked her into the marina kids and took her trick-or-treating at the air force base.  Our friends on Makai also came to DC for a couple of weeks and we had a great time exploring the sites with them.  We even got to see the President dedicate a new memorial to Disabled Veterans – the first time any of us had seen a sitting president!  Our stay also overlapped a business trip for our San Francisco friends Michael and Lisa, as well as a business trip for my brother Joe and his wife, Debbie.  It was so easy to be in DC – and so much fun – that we had a difficult time pulling ourselves away! 
Getting ready for our State Capital tour with the Makai kids - Roy, Marie, and Genny
Michael and Lisa in D.C.

Serena and Jeanette plotting to beat the pants off us (Florence, Martin, Luke, Ken, and me)
Jeanette and Genny
Marie, Genny, and Jeanette
Colleagues JoAnn and Karen pow-wow on Dream Catcher

Going Off The Mall

We also took some excursions off the Mall.  We spent a gorgeous fall day picnicking and hiking at Great Falls with my childhood friend, Florence and her husband, Martin.  Later, they hosted us at their home for a dinner with their three wonderful children.  It was fascinating to see their high-school- and college-age kids and trying to imagine Jeanette at that age.   I’m so grateful that parenting is a gradual process and that one generally has time to adjust to the rapid development of children!  Ken’s cousin, Andrea, took us on several outings – Gettysburg, the Woodlawn Mansion, Frank Lloyd Wright’s Pope-Leighey House, Alexandria, Harper’s Ferry, Arlington Cemetery, and the Claude Moore Colonial Farm.  It’s a wonder Jeanette got any schoolwork done!
Florence and Beth at Great Falls

Great Falls, VA

Jeanette and Andrea at Harper's Ferry

Ken and Jeanette at Great Falls

Woodlawn with Andrea


Wreath laying ceremony at Tomb of the Unknown Soldier

Underway Again

Golden leaves and dropping temperatures were our signal that it was time to move south once again.  My business trip to Portland, OR in early November kept us in DC longer than we originally intended, but the moment I returned – literally – we weighed anchor and set off.  Nine days later, we are in Charleston, SC, sitting out a blow and waiting for our next weather window to sail to St. Augustine, FL.  Forecasts like those for tomorrow night (25 degrees!!!) are a great motivator for moving south as quickly as possible.  Eighty degrees can’t come soon enough!
Sailing wing-on-wing up the Neuse River in North Carolina