The Raggeds

Buena Vista

The Jumentos Cays and Ragged Islands (both are sometimes referred to simply as “The Raggeds”) stretch out beyond Little Exuma reaching almost to Cuba.  Last year, we made it as far south as Buena Vista Cay.  This year, Buena Vista was our first stop as we made a 70-mile run from Hog Cay Cut in 15-20kt winds on the beam, our fastest point of sail.  We pulled into the anchorage and reunited with our kid-boat caravan that had left George Town a couple of days before us.  Buena Vista has decent diving and while I didn’t do a lot of snorkeling, Ken got in the water and made good progress in filling up our freezer with fish and lobster. 

Afternoon catch

1 of 2 Mahis we caught on the way back to George Town

The island itself has just one inhabitant.  We met Edward last year when we anchored in the small bay near his settlement.  As we were looking to land our dinghy, he waved us over and proceeded to give us a tour of his camp and extensive gardens.  His dwelling is very rustic, his only water supply provided by rain, fish and lobster are caught on the reefs, and fruits and vegetables coaxed ever so patiently from the sandy soil.  Edward is well known by cruisers and welcomes visits to his garden and a menagerie that includes several chickens and a baby goat.  The girls held the little goat for hours, hand feeding her succulent leaves and petting her downy-soft coat.  One of the more colorful characters we’ve met along the way, Edward gave Ken the rundown on the history of The Raggeds and took him on a hike to show him some of the native medicinal plants. 

Edward's settlement

Sharks in the water meant more boat time for kids

Duncantown

Sparsely inhabited, rocky and often barren, The Raggeds do not exactly appear hospitable.  In fact, there is only one real settlement in the entire island chain – Duncantown – located on Ragged Island at the end of the chain.  With a population of 80, the residents of Duncantown lead a simple life.  The town itself is charming, with beautiful views and a guaranteed breeze from almost every direction.  Saltpans lie on the east side of town and each family has their own plot.  The salt collected from Ragged Island is fine and flaky. 

Walking into Duncantown (saltpans to the right)

Looking back to the anchorage at Southside Bay on Ragged Island

Like everywhere in the Bahamas, there is evidence of projects started but incomplete or unused…. a bonefish lodge that’s been five years in the making and only partially finished, a newly-paved runway that lies dormant, etc.  Nonetheless, the island serves its population and visitors with a grocery store, a gift shop, a couple of restaurants, a repair shop, and a school.  Aside from the school, the other services seem to be open only when there is demand, primarily on the three or four days per month that the mail boat arrives.  Residents order their supplies from the mail boat and this is the only way for cruisers to stock up on fresh produce, refrigerated goods, eggs and meats.  We spoke at length with a couple of the residents and there was a pervasive sense of happiness and living the good life.  One woman, married to a fisherman, told us that when she wants a fish, she crosses the street, drops the hook, and pulls up dinner.  Just like that. 

Marjorie's colorful gift shop

Looking up island from Ragged Island

Water, Water Everywhere

Perched on a narrow, shallow shelf of pure white sand dotted with coral heads and reefs, The Raggeds are surrounded by water thousands of feet deep.  Purples, indigos, and cerulean blues of unreachable depths give way to teal, emerald, azure, and aquamarine waters that shallow precipitously.  The reefs here are pristine and swimming amidst forests of living coral is mesmerizing.  The fishing is also superb and we have all come to expect fish for dinner.  Currents are strong and we try to dive at slack tide or on a flood so that we are at least being pushed back toward land rather than out to sea.   As much as we love to swim, we find that we aren’t spending as much time in the water as much as we’d like due to the sharks in the anchorages. 

Double Breasted Cay

Shark Thirty

By now, we’ve learned that it’s best to spearfish at slack or on a flood tide so that fish blood does not get swept out to sea and attract unwanted predators.  We also don’t spear fish very early in the morning or in the late afternoon (4:30 is known locally as Shark:30) when the sharks are making the rounds of the islands.  So far, we haven’t been hassled by sharks in the water.  Our friends, though, saw a 15’ Hammerhead when they went diving one evening and the fishermen at Buena Vista reported a 14’ Tiger Shark in the cut as our caravan was clearing out of the anchorage in the morning.  We all agreed that it was a good time to be leaving the neighborhood! 

5' Lemon Shark joins the circle game

The Welcome Committee 

Commercial fishing boats frequent these islands and sharks have come to expect handouts as their catch is cleaned each day.  At Double Breasted Cay we pulled into one of the prettiest anchorages I’d ever seen.  The only boat there, our anchor had barely touched sand when the first shark showed up.  Within minutes, 4 reef sharks and a lemon were circling the boat.  That day, we dove the reef with confidence, knowing that the local sharks were all busy checking out our boat.  In fact, we did quite a bit of snorkeling and spearfishing in that area and didn’t see any sharks in the water.  Not that I’m complaining.  We’re on our way to Long Island now after leaving George Town and reports of a 12’ Tiger Shark in the harbor behind us. 

Shark Whisperer