But first...
Well, it turns out that we’re not very reliable
bloggers. There are some gaping
holes in our account that may or may not ever be filled. Suffice it to say that we spent a
weekend in Charleston after Masonboro, then sailed down to Hilton Head Island
to visit our friends Judy and Bob Powell.
We arrived in HHI just ahead of a cold snap that saw temps drop to the
low 30’s on the boat! Judy and Bob
were kind enough to offer Ken’s mom, Marie, a cozy guest room and she quickly warmed
(no pun intended) to the idea.
Walks on the beach, lunch at the yacht club, and an afternoon at the
coastal museum gave us a taste of the island, then and now. We watched the old Jon Voight movie,
Konrack, in honor of the Gullah people who settled these islands, and enjoyed
two nights of fresh-caught shrimp.
Our friends pampered us silly and we left with warm feelings and
promises of a rendez-vous; along with a full fridge and clean laundry (two of
our in-port priorities!).
Marie stayed behind and flew home to Fresno the next day with assurances
that she will rejoin us in the Bahamas at some point.
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Boat Monkey |
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Lovely Charleston home |
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Swing bridge coming into Charleston |
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Beautiful Hilton Head |
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Marie, Ken, J, Bob, and Judy |
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Bob and Ken trying on their "captain" hats |
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Sculpture at the Coastal Center |
24hrs On the Ocean
We left HHI knowing we’d spend the next 24 hours out on the
ocean. The wind wasn’t overly cooperative, but at least it wasn’t howling. The full moon was obscured by clouds, but lightened up the sky considerably. We
wound up motoring for much of the trip with Ken taking the late night watch until 2AM
before I took over until 6AM. The highlight of the trip, for me, came around 3AM when I bent down to take in the jib sheet and a dolphin surfaced just 2' away from my hands. It was comforting to know that there were other travelers at that hour! We arrived mid-morning on Sunday, 11/17, with time enough to go
ashore and tour the fort (Castillo de San Marcos) that afternoon.
St. Augustine is lovely and its Spanish history is evident in its
architecture. We were glad to have
had the opportunity to get ashore that day as it began to rain on Monday as a
front moved through.
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Cannons at the Castillo |
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Castillo de San Marcos from the water |
Manatees, Dolphins and Rays – oh My!
We gave up waiting for good weather and left St. Augustine that
Wednesday with a blustery breeze at our stern, resigned to a couple of days on
the ICW. The trip down to
Melbourne was beautiful and a chance to experience “Old Florida;” the part of
Florida that most people never see and which keeps me coming back for
more.
The Matanzas River was new territory for me and I was
constantly scanning the water and shoreline for wading birds, dolphins, and
manatees; and the beautiful vistas of hammocks, marsh, and cypress. A short cut across the Haulover Canal
and we were in the Indian River and the home stretch to Melbourne. We arrived Thursday evening, 11/21, and
anchored by the Pineda Causeway Bridge.
It’s All Relative
My brother, Joe, picked us up the next morning and we spent
a long weekend with him, my sister-in-law Debbie, niece Amanda, and
great-nephew Ethan.
Jeanette was
in kid heaven, having a cousin her own age to play with after several weeks of
adult company.
It was
difficult peeling them apart at the end of each day!
On Saturday, we decided to move the boat down to a marina in
Eau Gallie because of a big blow forecast to move through the area.
Joe, Debbie, and my cousin and his
wife, Jim and Pam Wheble, joined us for the short sail down river.
The wind was light, but we were in no
hurry (for once!) and savored the tranquility of the river and the fun of being
together as we skimmed along.
Sunday was a double birthday celebration – Ethan’s (the Thanksgiving baby)
and an early preview of Jeanette’s (our New Year’s Eve girl).
It was difficult saying good-bye to the
warmth of so much family after having been en route for so long, but we were
eager to make more progress south so that we could position ourselves for the
crossing.
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Joe, Pam, Debbie, and Jim |
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Jeanette and Ethan with his favorite gift! |
Doing the ICW the Hard Way
We left early Monday morning, 11/25, with 30 kts of wind
behind us, and squalls lining the horizon.
It was a wet ride down the Indian River to Fort Pierce,
where we anchored in strong winds and spent a rolly night.
We weighed anchor at first light, with
the wind finally abating and I caught sight of a spinner shark in mid-air as we
pulled out of the anchorage.
The
weather gradually cleared and by the time we were south of St. Lucie Inlet, the
sun was breaking through and shining on emerald green water.
Hammocks and mangroves were slowly
replaced with mansions and soon we were gawking at the homes that line the ICW
as it passes Jupiter Island and the North Palm Beach area.
We slipped into Old Port Cove Marina in
time for dinner with Joe and Debbie, who were in the area for business.
Our location also gave us a chance to
catch up with my friend Dede, spend time with my brothers Chris and Phil, Chris' wife Debbie and son Bobby, and share
a wonderful Thanksgiving with even more family!
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Jupiter Lighthouse |
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Dad, Connie, Matt, Carmen, Becky, Mike, Ken, Debbie, Chris, and Beth |
Hollywood, Here We Come!
After a week of rubbing elbows with the Beautiful People in
North Palm Beach, we headed south on the 2nd to Hollywood, my
childhood home. We left N. Palm on
a picture-perfect morning – the kind of day that sells beachfront condos to
Snowbirds. We passed Peanut Island
and marveled at the clarity of the water and the sea life beneath us. Lake Worth was a hodge-podge of
gorgeous yachts and abandoned derelicts, their fuzzy skirts revealing time
spent too long at anchor. Leaving
Lake Worth Inlet, we trailed behind a luxury motor yacht with a helicopter
buzzing close and hovering at all angles to catch the perfect shot. Later, coming through Port Everglades,
we passed another mega-yacht with a sizeable “sailing dinghy” on board.
Florida has been a wonderful respite, with long weekends
spent with friends and family and warm days for fun and, of course, boat
chores. I’ve managed to connect
with a few of my long-time friends here and have soaked up the companionship and
comfort of friends who’ve known me through good times and bad. No matter how many years pass, we
always pick up right where we left off.
For the past week, we’ve been anchored in South Lake. The homes, many of them quite modest,
are beautiful here, framed by lush foliage and open to the east and south for
the best breezes. We’ve been
sharing the lake with a French Canadian couple on their 60’ trawler and a solo
sailor on his 30’ sloop – 2 sides of the cruising coin. It’s been fun practicing my French and
getting tips on how to make “the crossing: (i.e., crossing the Gulf Stream)
from a regular.
There is no dinghy
landing on this lake, so we must take a 10-minute ride under the bridge
(Hollywood Blvd.) to North Lake and the public boat ramp. From there, it’s a short walk to my
dad’s house and it’s been great having this time to spend with him and
Connie. We’ve had fun decorating
the house for Christmas – something Jeanette and I have sorely missed this
year. While I brought a few
ornaments for the boat, it’s not the same as making the trek to Jones Family
Farms for a live Christmas tree and a case of wine. Still, we’ve opened the door to new rituals and I suspect
we’ll be stringing up decorated shells and finding novel ways to celebrate the
holidays in warmer climes.
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Luxury Yacht photo shoot |
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Cerulean blue water |
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...with a little sailing dinghy "tumor" in its side |
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Anchored in South Lake, Hollywood |
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An old Hollywood institution |
Bahamas Beckon
The northerly winds have abated, for now, and the gentle
southerlies that filled in their place served to usher out the rain and calm
the seas. Ideal sailing weather
continues to evade us, however, and we have been forced to motor sail for much
of our time here. Still, the sight
of so much wildlife – dolphins, leopard rays, flying fish – and the gorgeous
water – aquamarine, jade green, cerulean blue – have more than made up for any
disappointment. Our plans are revised daily as the
forecast changes, but it looks like we’ll be heading down to No Name Harbor in
Biscayne Bay on Thursday and then make the crossing to Cat Cay or Bimini on
Sunday.
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